New York Fashion Week: The Favorites
By Gretta Monahan
New York Fashion Week for fall 2017 has been a wild ride, and the highlights have almost been too many to count. In the last week, craftsmanship and creativity reigned in collections that ranged from minimalist to ornate.
There were the sumptuous designs sent out by the always-wonderful Adam Lippes — a grouping of shearling jackets, pink velvet pantsuits, swingy culottes and leather shift dresses. It was all as fun in execution as it was serious in its design — the kind of clothes you can wear every day, yet never worry for a second that it’s boring.
And at Diane Von Furstenberg, designer Jonathan Saunders has revamped the brand, and this collection kept that reinvention going. He offered up flowing mixed-print midi dresses galore, alongside puffy fur jackets in bright hues and a slew of accessories — from low-slung belts and studded pumps to cross-shoulder leather bags and metallic boots.
On the more minimalist front, Cushnie et Ochs have build their brand over the years with bodycon, cutout dresses and streamlined suits. That expertise continued this season, too, and was well represented with sleek shift and slip dresses that seemed to be almost seamless. One departure for them: sequins, and lots of them. A jewel-toned dress of cascading panels one minute, a sequined jumpsuit the next.
Meanwhile, the luxurious sportswear of Derek Lam got what you might call a “convenience” makeover this season. The designer went in for easy-to-wear, day-to-night pieces that combine athleisure with office-ready and date-night-friendly combinations. Fur collared-trenches, groovy red velvet pantsuits, purple leather skirts and lots of midi dresses revved up with details like embroidery.
And then, back to the minimalism, a la The Row. Ashley and Mary-Kate Olsen’s work this time around got an even neater, cleaner treatment than usual. Monochromatic looks dominated, in muted hues (a lot of neutrals like cream, nude, tan, black and white). Lots of big, full length, tailored coats over pants (both high-waisted and low-riding cuts) and simple-looking but sumptuous cashmere.
And how about Tibi’s Amy Smilovic, whose many takes on the pinstriped suit were funked up with sneakers and feminine, anything-but-neat hair. She put tight trousers and micro-miniskirts with plaid pencil skirts that will inspire us all to be perfect, but imperfect at the same time. What’s not to love about that?