Who Stole the Show @NYFW?
By Gretta Monahan
It’s been a wild ride since New York Fashion Week kicked off in Manhattan; big changes from how the clothes are presented (sometimes digitally) and when they’re sold (right after the shows, faster than ever before). But what’s most noteworthy is the clothes themselves. By turns energetic and inspired, here are some of my favorite collections of the week:
Cushnie et Ochs: Known by fans for their splashy and brave creations, designers Michelle Ochs and Carly Cushnie are taking on Spring 2017 dressing with pastel color block pieces inspired, they say, by Miami. I loved the sexy cocktail dresses, as well as the flowy jumpsuits (trending in so many of the best shows!) and ’70s-inspired graphic evening dresses that I can see taking center stage at a July patio party.
Sally LaPointe: A collection showing inspiration from the country/rock ’n’ roll of Johnny Cash, this show was full of powerful combos of leather, fringe and sequins. It also brought plenty of glamour and femininity, balancing rough and soft materials. I loved seeing the vulnerable softness protected by the hard edges of corsets paired with see-through tops. There were lace-up pants with sequins and fringe tops, and army jackets paired with a beautiful, embroidered midi skirt with side fringe.
Carolina Herrera: After 35 years as an industry name, Herrera pulled out all the stops. The icon of classic design staged her presentation at the beautiful Frick Collection of the upper east side, and turned out a handful of soft denim dresses, metallic brocades and voluminous skirts bolstered by tulle.
Proenza Schouler: As I’ve mentioned, Proenza Schouler is always a favorite show of mine. This year, the design duo turned heads with fluttering sleeves and graphic zigzag patterns in a kaleidoscope of primary colors against white and black. Their hem-detail pencil skirt was a winner as a work-to-dinner piece, and any of the collection’s midi-length check-patterned dresses would be a boon for easy office dressing.
Oscar de la Renta: This was one of the most buzzed-about shows, under the new creative direction of Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia of Monse, after losing Oscar himself and then the swift exit of Peter Copping. In short, it was a huge hit, with everyone whispering that the clothes look so fresh and exciting — and I completely agree. There were so many must-have pieces: safari jackets and shorts, column-print shifts perfect for a girls lunch or a board meeting, and pretty white peasant dresses, plus one standout dress: a red strapless silk floor-length stunner that few could take their eyes off of.